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Japanese Textiles

  Chair: Rod Byatt, rodbyatt@hotmail.com
Mailing Chair: Betty Carlson, , bettycarlson@bellsouth.net
Fees: $10 USA and Canada, $15 (US Funds) Others
Publication: 2 newsletters/year, April and October
Contribution: Required letter of introduction on joining the group. One mandatory contribution of article, samples, or designs per year
Computer: Members do not need to be on-line, though we have a yahoo group listserve and web site, and references may be made to on-line resources. .
Group began: 2004.
Membership: Unlimited, currently 28
Omeshi nuitori shisyu bird and blooms
  Shown: Omeshi nuitori shisyu bird and blooms. This tough double-faced omeshi silk from a kimono has a warp and weft of alternating red and black. The pattern is jacquard woven, with red flowers on a black ground (reversed on the back). The bird has white silk and gold metallic threads added in a supplemental weft technique called "nuitori shishu" that looks very much like embroidery. Fabrics like this were very popular in the 1950's through 1970's.


We are fascinated by the range and depth of Japanese textiles, from the simplest to the most complex. We focus on learning as much as possible from the study of Japanese textiles of any era and sharing our research and applications. The group is open to weavers of any level and to non-weavers who are interested and willing to contribute to the topic. We are not experts but merely fellow learners. .

There will be no teaching section in the newsletter, just your contributions. Each member is required to contribute one on-topic article, sample set or design set each year. They will sign up in advance for the April or October newsletter (due March 30 and September 30 respectively) letting the leader know the date and topic they have chosen. An article or weaving draft will be sent via postal mail to arrive in time by the deadline. Late contributions will be held for the next newsletter. Each member will send enough copies for the entire group plus two (library and library back-up copies). Any extras will be available to new group members, donated to CW fund raising events or returned to sender. By joining the group, members agree not to post copyright material without proper permissions and give permission for a CD of the group's newsletters to be kept in the library for back-up and possible circulation to CW members only. Those who do not fulfill their contribution requirement will have their newsletters held until the contribution arrives. Newsletters will also be held if a member lets their CW membership lapse.

Members in this group do not have to have computer access. However, we have a private Yahoo! Group listserve for discussion and Yahoo web site where members may post links and photos, and references to on-line materials may be made in the paper newsletter. Anyone posting a photo on-line will be asked to mail paper copies to the leader for off-line members and the library copy of the notebook (this won't be a large number as approximately 95% of the CW members are on-line). .

New members are required to send in an informal one-page letter introducing themselves, including their weaving and fiber interests, why they are interested in the group, and something about themselves. This will be published in the newsletter and we hope that the introduction will help you to feel comfortable communicating with others in the group.

Some possible topics of individual study are listed below. Many others are acceptable.

  • Weave structure including satin/damask, crepe weavers, drawloom fabrics, jacquard weavers, double weaves, areas of discontinuous supplemental weft, leno, laces, undulating reeds, rep and brocade.
  • Dye techniques including batiking, stenciling, printing, watercolor-type painting, resist painting, hand painting, shibori, other tie dyeing and color gradations.
  • Surface embellishments including embroidery, gold leafing and couching
  • Dye/Weaving techniques including Meisen, Ikat and Kasuri
  • Design techniques including layering designs, variations on a single motif (such as crane or mum), striping variations, symmetry, mon (family crests) variations; use of line, proportion and scale
  • Cords including those made on the marudai and other looms
  • Garments including kimono, yukata, haori, hakama, happi, monpe, uchikake, michiyuki, tabi, obi and juban.
  • Non-garment textiles including noren, nobori, silk paintings, furoshiki, fukusa and tatami
  • Fibers including silk, hemp, synthetics, rayon, cotton, wool and combinations (union cloth)
  • Cultural aspects of particular designs such as formality, history, ceremonial use and social level.

Alternatively, your contribution could be:

  • Samples of actual Japanese textiles
  • Original Samples inspired by Japanese textiles that you designed and wove (or braided, surface embellished, or dyed)
  • A set of original drafts inspired by Japanese textiles
  • Description, design history, and photos of final product documenting the creation of your own garment or other textile based on Japanese techniques

References

  • Basho to Spun Steel: Contemporary Japanese Textile Design (video) directed by Cristobal Zañartu
  • The Book of Kimono by Norio Yamanaka
  • Japanese Country Textiles (Victoria and Albert Museum Far Eastern Series) by Anna Jackson
  • Kimono: Fashioning Culture by Liza Crihfield Dalby
  • Make Your Own Japanese Clothes: Patterns and Ideas for Modern Wear by John Marshall, Steven Jenner (Photographer)
  • Snow, Wave, Pine: Traditional Patterns in Japanese Design by Sadao Hibi (Photographer), Motoji Niwa, Jay W. Thomas (Translator)
  • Symbols of Japan: Thematic Motifs in Art and Design by Merrily C. Baird
  • Textile Art of Japan by Sunny Yang, Rochelle M. Narasin (Contributor)
  • Japanese Design Motifs by Matsuya Company (Author)Traditional Japanese Stencil Designs by Clarence Hornung (Author)
  • Treasury of Japanese Designs and Motifs for Artists and Craftsmen by Carol Belanger Grafton (Editor)

Note:
You must be a member of Complex Weavers to belong to a study group. Please check your expiry date, or contact Frances Alcorn at alcorn@nwlink.com

Back issues of study group newsletters and swatches may be borrowed by any member in good standing, from the Complex Weavers Lending Library. Contact our Librarian at library@complex-weavers.org

If you have questions about this study group, contact the chair at the address above.
For questions about CW study groups in general, contact the CW Study Group Coordinator at CWStudyGroupCoord@complex-weavers.org

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